So how does a trip to the Monterey Bay aquarium fit with an Italian theme? I guess that I really need to stretch a little to make it fit. It could be that I and the sweetie stayed at an AirBNB location (as I did a year ago in Italy) – a tale in itself. It could also be that I was doing comparative research since I visited the aquarium in Genova last year. The aquarium there is supposed to be a major attractions but I was so underwhelmed that I barely mentioned it when I made the blog post about Genova. I had heard about a new exhibit in Monterey - cephalopods. Those are those cute and tasty critters with tentacles such as octopus and squid. There are also cuttlefish and the wildly primitive nautilus. So the lovely K and I went for a jaunt down the coast to see the best aquarium that I’ve ever seen. I made an AirBNB reservation. There weren’t too many places available so I settled on a place in Salinas. Hey, if it was good enough for John Steinbeck it’s good enough for me. I thought that it came with a private bath but no, it did not. Not only that but there was another couple staying in a third bedroom (the owner had one with his own bathroom) and that couple was deaf. So if someone was in the bathroom they could not hear you knock. Just let your imagination go on this one and consider how this could complicate things. Besides that, they seemed to insist on keeping the bathroom door closed whether one of them was in there or not. Then there was the breakfast supplied. Three types of cereal, the best of which was cheerios, coffee weak enough to see the bottom of the cup, strawberries that were growing white mold, no 1/2 and 1/2 for Ms. K although it didn’t matter too much since the coffee was virtually undrinkable. Not so much undrinkable as much as a waste of time. I’m sure this is going to be one of these stories we will retell endlessly. So, yes, I think that I’ve learned my AirBNB lesson since I also found that it costs more than motels (admittedly cheap ones) in Monterey proper.
I also learned that there seem to be very few decent restaurants anywhere in that part of California. We asked at a good restaurant where we stopped for lunch in Santa Cruz and they recommended Carmel. That’s the WAY to cute and expensive little town just a few miles south of Monterey where people with more money than taste seem to dress like used car salesmen and the restaurants all seem to be too expensive with low levels of quality. Actually the best meal that we had I think was at the aquarium restaurant – and it had a spectacular bay view complete with sea otters and seals.
The aquarium itself is really phenomenal. Huge tanks of a mix of marine creatures from giant sea bass to hammerhead sharks to sea turtles – all in the same tank. The cephalopods were indeed fascinating although the octopi were generally just kind of curled up lumps. The real hit for me was the special (and now permanent) exhibit of jellyfish. They were so majestically beautiful and come in many colors and sizes. I took a bunch of photos and a few little videos with my phone but this one I found on Youtube really shows things best.
It seems that it is longer and longer between posts. When I’m not in Italy life seems less noteworthy. Not that I haven’t had anything to do but it all seems (and is) just more ordinary. I suppose that if I were actually living in Italy it would be the same. However there is one noteworthy thing to report. I went to the see an opera. Certainly not the first one but this was indeed special. This was the annual simulcast. The first one I went to was Rigoletto but that was in the fall. For some reason this one was the 5th of July. Â Still, given that it is San Francisco, there was the ever present chill after the sun goes down. My renowned laziness has meant that I am only now doing the blog post that I should have done over a month ago. In any case this time is was La Traviata. Yet another woeful tale, as most operas are. Still it is a great event with over 26,000 people shivering together during what seems almost a front row seat. In fact the display is high definition and is a 103 foot screen. Pretty impressive. Yes, one misses a bit of the pageantry of opera in the opera house but, like sporting events, one gets a much better view of the action. Â Click on any photo to get a much bigger and better view.
The crowd to the right
Sure the screen looks pretty small but it is, of course, quite large and even from this distance it is indeed like a front row seat. The sound system that they bring in is quite good as well so it is really a delightful experience. I’m looking forward to next year.
The crowd to the left.
That’s really a lot of people for an opera!
Waiting for the opera to start
We came dressed appropriately. I have gloves and a scarf at the ready.
I don’t know if they actually say that in Italian so I mayhave just invented a term. Still that’s the way I think of it. I had, with the help of Barbara (and some help from Cesare) arranged a lunch with Italian friends that was timed for just a few days before my departure. The date was Saturday June 7 and my departure is (I’m writing this the day before I leave) June 10. It was me and 9 Italians, 7 of whom I know and the others a spouse and “companion”.
It was at an agritourismo, Ca’ Guidotto (more info and photos by clicking here) in the hills not too far from Bologna; Google maps says 27 kilometers (about 17 miles) from where I live. I had been there for Pasquetta and the food was good, it was not too far away and Cesare knows the owners. He unfortunately was unable to come but made the reservations. Two others who I’ve had a good deal of contact with here (Franco and Renata) also were unable to come but it was a very vivacious group. As is often the case I have a hard time following the conversation but it got better with time for two reasons. First, two other groups sitting near us left thus lowering the competing noise level substantially and second, I had drunk more wine by that time (maybe kidding about this one).
The meal started with 3  different kinds of pasta for everyone at the table; the first was green tagliatelle with ragu, the second was ravioli with nettles (a specialty here) as a flavor and the third ravioli with mortadella and some kind of cheese, probably ricotta. Next came the crescentine, those delectable squares of fried and puffed up bread that are served with abundant salumi. There were also platters of fritto misto, in this case veggies ranging from potatoes to cauliflower. Oh yes, there were also a couple of bowls of various pickled things to pass around; onions, peppers, mushrooms, etc. Wine was carafes of local sangiovese and a local white, pignoletto. And then there was of course coffee and some people had desert. Then came the grappas and other liquors. One came in a Fanta bottle and we were assured that it was not a soft drink. It was a good house made grappa different from the other that was made there. Check their website by clicking on this link to see some of the others.
I always forget to take pictures of the crescentine but they are such a great local specialty that I found a perfect one on the web. Sometimes they are bigger but these look like the perfect size.
The ones I like the best are this shape and about 1 1/2 inches on a side. Bite sized.
The guest
Clockwise from left  – Paolo, (in green shirt)  Marco and his wife Claudia (standing), Vittorio and his wife Barbara at the table, Claudia my friend and former teacher, Gaudio and his companion of 10 or more years Sandra and Gianluca.
I have often gone through or past the Piazza Santo Stefano. It’s one that’s made up mostly of relatively uniformly sized small stones that are hard to walk on and when riding in a bicycle threaten to shake loose tooth fillings. It also the place where they hold the monthly antiquarian market. Those are the kinds of daily details that I like but I have completely side stepped the church located there. In  may be the oldest church in Bologna (the first part dates from the 4th century)  but was unable to locate that fact on the web. In any case it must be at least one of the most interesting. It’s also known as the “seven churches” because there are several interconnected small churches or chapels although apparently reconstructions in the last 100 or so years have changed the look of it. There’s always a special feeling about places like this that are so old and this one is really special because of the sort of “organic” feel about how they are all interconnected. If you want more specifics the best english language description is found by clicking here.
The piazza with the church in the background
The first church entered. This one is from the 8th century
The ceiling of this church
Sculpture in the same church
The next church – or at least religious building. The most “suggestivo” – evocative
And the ceiling of this one
The courtyard connect to the church shown above
Another religious building on the other side of the courtyard
There’s a tower too
A wooden crypt in yet another religious building
Would you believe that in the gift shop you can buy – Santo Stefano grappa and limoncello? Not missing a chance here
It was all pretty interesting and if you’re into churches it’s one that I found pretty interesting. Not great art but a great feeling about the place. I took a bunch of pictures but enough already
